Elya Assayag is a History PhD candidate at Columbia University and was a recipient of a 2022–2023 New York Public Library Diamonstein-Spielvogel Fellowship. Her study focuses on the history of women in Morocco during the 20th century. Due to the lack of written archival sources on the topic, Elya studies the place of “female crafts,” such as embroidery, with the hope that the combination of archival materials, oral history, and material culture will open a path into the under-researched field. Besides trying to figure out her academic path, she volunteers with refugees and asylum seekers and tries to do something useful with the law degree she obtained a few years ago.

Ricard, Prosper. Broderies. From the series “Arts Marocains”. Alger: J. Carbonel, 1918.
When did you first get the idea for your research project?
A couple of years ago I encountered a fascinating book named Arts Marocains – Broderies[1] [Moroccan Arts – Embroidery], written by Prosper Ricard, the director of Service des Arts Indigènes [the Indigenous Arts Office], in 1918. The book presents an impressive and diverse survey of different types of Moroccan traditional embroideries. Going over the book made me realize the central place of embroidery in women’s lives, and to try to incorporate this material knowledge into my research. The topic of women’s history in the Moroccan context, as in other contexts, is hard to study due to the scarcity of written archival materials. The reasons for this are diverse and push researchers in the field to come up with creative methods in order to excavate information on women in different periods. In my research embroidery—its materiality and the process of creating it, became part of my methodology. Read

